
Clifford Santelli
​​TBA member and co-founder
So for a quite a while I have wanted to go back and solo Mt Rainier. I contemplated many different ways to attempt it. I thought of pure alpine style, or maybe a 3 day siege, but finally decided on camping at the nisqually flats for the night and then going for the summit-but it wasn't to be.
After work on sat I drove down to the gates of the mountain (approx 5hrs) and slept in my VW golf for the night. I woke to some breakfast at a hotel and then headed for Paradise Lodge. The rangers told me that the flats where full and I would have to sleep at camp Muir if I was going to go up, oh well, thats just another 1500' in the morning-sounds like fun. So I paid my fees and went off the camp Muir. Times get a little fuzzy but I got to camp at about 1pm and the sun was shinning. I took a 1 hour nap. Then it was time to make some water and dinner. But oh wait, my gas runs out after 2 litres of water and i forgot my bowl and spoon in the car. In an attempt to go as light as possible I had inherently left some stuff in the car, and decided to take the light fuel canister-a choice that hampered me significantly. The choice to go very light is also the reason for no pictures as I left the camera in the car. So I started to melt some snow on my shovel with the sun, which worked out fairly well until the sun went down. By nightfall I had a good headache so I thought some sleep would help. I had no tent and just decided to bivy for the night as the weather was very good. I crawled into my bag at about 6pm and just stared at the inside of it for 4hrs until my alarm went off.
10pm and boy am I excited. I put on my gear, folded everything else up and threw a large rock on them and headed off for the summit. After about 1hr I could tell I was not feeling right. I stopped at Nisqually flats for a drink of water and my headache was getting worse and my stomach felt like it was being stabbed with a knife, but it sure was beautiful. I was the only one awake and it felt like heaven shinning down on me. There was a million stars shinning and the moon was as large as a diner plate in the sky. My head was pounding but I figured that I might as well continue as I didn't come this far to quit when it was so close.
After crossing a couple of crevasses and continuing on for a couple more hours I had reached about 13,500' and took a break. Almost out of water and knowing that I can't make more until I get back to the car I sat and watched all the others (mostly guided groups) starting their trek up the mountain. It was funny to watch all the other headlamps, made me feel special for getting up so early and doing it my style and not with everyone else. Then these 2 guys came running (quite literally) up to me and after a hello and goodbye they where off to the summit. I felt like ass for being passed and wondered if I was really going that slow or they where really that fast. I would find out later.
Finally the summit crater, at first I did not know what it was, then it donned on me and boy was I happy. So I went into the middle and could see two headlamps at the true summit. We passed each other as I was just about at the top and they were coming down. I asked them what the rush was and they said they where only interested in the summit and wanted to make sure that they made it to the top. They also said they where completely wiped and tired, then they continued down.
I arrived at the summit at 3:11am. It was worth every effort I put in, I stood on top of the tallest mountain in the lower 48 states all alone in complete darkness. Just me and the stars. And I wouldn't have wanted it any other way. I stayed on the top for only a couple minutes before starting my descent. I quickly reached the crest of the crater and took a small break to reorganize my gear. I quickly caught up with the two other climbers on the their descent and you tell they were completely wiped out. I could now see all the guided groups on their way up, I was always happy when asked if I had made it to the summit and I could say "yeah, I made it!". I'm not a fan of guided groups, especially after what happened on Denali, and am always happy being able to do something by myself that others need help with. Also I think you learn quicker and remember better when you are doing it all yourself and aren't dependant on others, it sticks in your mind better.
I made it back to camp Muir at about 6am, which is 8hrs from camp-summit-camp. Not bad, but no time record here. I took a nap which lasted about 1hr, then got up and headed back down to the car. As I was leaving I noticed that no one else had made it back down yet, I wished everyone safe passage and started down. I arrived at Paradise lodge and checked out with the ranger (another good feeling being able to tell them I summited solo). Then grabbed some water and headed back to the car. I made it from my car-summit-car in 25hrs. That I was very happy with, and my headache and stomach ache where a thing of the past. I headed out of town for a bite to eat and some coffee and then it was a 5hr car ride home to see the family and relax. It was a trip of a lifetime. Oh I also forgot to mention that when I was packing up my gear in the car I somehow managed to drive my ice axe through my left thigh about 1.5 inches deep. Hurt like a motherf&^%ker, but I was still in a good mood. You know what they say "scars are tatoos with better stories".